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Courchevel's Legendary Couloirs

the legendary couloirs of La Saulire, Courchevel

Les Couloirs de la Saulire can be seen from almost anywhere in Courchevel snaking down the North Col of Saulire, thin ribbons of snow separating the ribs of rock.

They began to acquire their legendary status in 1954, when the installation of the first Saulire tram made it easier to access the ridge. The couloir running directly below the tramway has an average incline of 62°.

Before attempting them for the first time, ski down Combe de Saulire and traverse left off the piste. One passes successively on the left the exit from Sous-pylons (right under the cable car), Emile Allais (the narrowest, steepest and longest) and Grand Couloir (the widest, and generally considered the easiest).

Get a feel of the steepness and snow conditions and watch two or three groups skiing (or falling) down the couloirs. The bad news is that falls are frequent, the good news is that they seem to rarely cause injury (other than to pride).

The Couloirs can only be approached by taking the Saulire telepherique cable car. 95% of the passengers turn left on leaving the lift, the intrepid few advanced or expert skiers turn right.

The couloirs are approached via a two -three meter wide gently descending track along the ridge between Courchevel on the right and Meribel on the left. At the start of the path there is normally a blackboard giving guidance on snow conditions.

Intermediate or weak advanced skiers should not attempt these runs except with a professional guide or instructor. If in doubt you can visit the pisteurs in the first aid station on the far side of the cable car. They are usually helpful about giving advice.

Now make up your mind, but err on the side of caution, this is serious skiing!


Sous Pylons
is the easiest to find. There are various variations of entry and two alternative exits. All are clearly visible from the cable car and can be reconnoitered during your ascent. Much of it is also visible from the upper station platform. Entry is from the ridge path and usually involves skiing through a cornice where there may be short drop off. This is tricky only if the couloir is icy. Sous Pylons looks the steepest narrowest and most intimidating couloir but I always think that it is the easiest

The Grand Couloir is by convention the easiest Couloir, and most people ski it first. Ski down the path and look into a shallow bowl with unpleasantly uneven and awkward bumps. This is your last chance for a change of heart and an easy retreat. If you don't fancy these bumps you probably shouldn't be in the couloirs, you'll have to take off your skis and retreat back up the path.

There are two possible entries to Grand Couloir. The most popular lies straight down the fall line of this upper bowl towards the lowest point of a shallow crest directly ahead. On arrival at the crest you look straight down a steepish slope towards Courchevel 1850. This is Grand Couloir. It may be slightly tricky getting started (particularly if snow boarders have cut up the entry) but the further you go the easier it gets.

To reach the alternative entry traverse high left in the shallow bowl around the shoulder above the main entry. This gives access to the upper (northern) arm of Grand Couloir which is narrower and slightly steeper. Usually the snow is better on this arm and you get a longer more dramatic run.

Emile Allais lies between Grand Couloir and Sous Pylons. This is the most difficult to find, but careful reconnoitring during the cable car ascent will help to pinpoint the two possible entries. Technically it is probably the trickiest, but because fewer people attempt it the snow is usually better than Grand Couloir. If you thought that Grand Couloir was fun rather than frightening you will definitely enjoy Emile Allais. If you came off Grand Couloir glad that it was over, don't attempt any of the others.

Croix de Verdon is a clear escalation of challenge. All of the four couloirs so far are listed routes although rules change from year to year. There are further opportunities for the more adventurous. Set off as if heading for the upper entry to Grand Couloir. Continue traversing left across the top of the upper branch to the foot of a snow field. You can't go too far or you'll finish up traversing on rock.

Normally you won't be the first skiers there so you should be able to follow tracks. In any case, take off your skis and set off straight up the fall-line, either kick steps or follow the existing track. The climb looks vertical but is actually quite comfortable and short. At the top is a very narrow snow ridge usually only comfortable for one person to put on skis at a time. The reward is the longest couloir, sufficiently steep and narrow to look terrifying from below, but actually gratifyingly easy after the steep climb.